by Mail-correspondence Bram & Reinder - Fri Nov 01 (2002)
Alternative for Low Efficiency Sterling Engine
Van: Demotech
Datum: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:01:00 Europe/Amsterdam
Aan: Bram de Vries
Onderwerp: Antw.: warmte pomp
... met de huidige ventilator kan er verder ge?xperimenteerd worden. Maar
uitzicht op een ultieme oplossing inspireert meer.
Wat betreft je bi-stabiele klep, dat lijkt me een eitje. Ik zie een beeld
van een membraan van dunne plaat met een kleine slag, bv. 10 % van de
diameter. Het vlieggewicht in het midden bevat de klep en de aanslag. De as
van de klep, in de bewegingsrichting van het membraan, is aan beide zijden
van het membraan opgehangen in een drietal licht gebogen korte stukjes
metaal draad. die stukjes draad zijn aan beide einden gepositioneerd in een
kommetje.
Bij doorklikken bij de aanslag aan het einde van de werkslag,
buigen de stukjes draad dus even iets verder door. In principe hetzelfde
als jouw trekveertjes, maar zorgend voor geleiding EN bi-stabiel
doorklikken.
Zo'n membraan zou met een behoorlijk hoge frequentie moeten kunnen werken.
het wordt dan een klein ding. Zoveel lucht is er bij een klein continue
vuur niet nodig. Het wordt tijd dat we wat beter weten hoeveel lucht er
werkelijk nodig is. Die gegevens moeten makkelijk zijn te vinden in
kachelliteratuur. Hoeveelheid warmte versus hoeveelheid hout stond in je
attachment, niet de benodigde lucht.
Wat betreft Mathijs Vertooren, zijn aanvullende inspiratie is welkom.
Houtvergassen levert houtskool op waarop het goed koken is. Mooie warmte,
goed te regelen en geen rook en stank. Maar ik denk dat het niet te
verenigen is met het kardinale uitgangspunt van het huidige kachelontwerp,
namelijk de splitsing in een industrieel te maken klein slim mechaniekje,
dat goedkoop in bulk te produceren is aan de ene kant en aan de andere kant
de kachel zelf, die ruw uit gratis materiaal is op te bouwen, terwijl de
combinatie een high-tech resultaat oplevert. Misschien vind Mathijs het
leuk om mee te denken ...
De temperatuur in de kachel hangt af van de afkoeling van de diverse delen.
Hoe heter de binnenkomende lucht (denk aan een hoogoven) en dan in precies
de goede hoeveelheid, hoe minder warmte-afvoer, hoe heter het vuur,
Daarna
moet je nog zorgen dat er geen grotere wervels zijn, waarin koelere lucht
toch nog minder verbrand gas mee voert. Dat kan met een soort gloeiblok.
Maar zou jij je kunnen concentreren op het idee laag rendement Sterling
pomp? Ik ben benieuwd naar de uitkomst van je volgende experiment.
Intussen, veel succes met alles en tot ziens of mails,
Reinder van Tijen
Bram de Vries heeft op Tuesday, 3 Jun 2003 om 10:16 (Europe/Amsterdam) het
volgende geschreven:
Beste Reinder,
Na wat kleine experimenten heb ik inmiddels ontdekt dat er een
behoorlijke
druk te halen is door lucht op te warmen, maar de snelheid is vaak wat
laag.
Voor de werking van de pomp heb ik onderhand de bistabiele klep nodig.
Hier
heb ik veel over na gedacht en ga wat proberen met wat restjes
binnenband.
Verder heb ik een vriend die bij Ecofys werkt, Matthijs Vertooren is zijn
naam. Hij weet veel over verbrandingen en wil graag de kachel zelf nog
eens
bekijken. Ik weet niet of je het principe van houtvergassing kent? Voor
zover ik begreep komt het er op neer dat je hout verbrandt, maar dat vuur
laat je stikken. Hier komt veel rook bij vrij. Die rook is weer
brandbaar.
Je verbrandt dus in twee stappen. Resultaat is meer warmte (hoewel dit
niet
uit de attachment blijkt) en (in principe) een schoner
verbrandingsproduct.
Het schijnt vrij eenvoudig uit te voeren zijn, maar je hebt dan wel een
goed
afgesloten verbrandingsomgeving nodig en een geregelde lucht toevoer is
ook
fijn (komt dat even goed uit dat er een warmte pomp in de lucht aanvoer
komt
te zitten).
Ik ben ook op zoek geweest naar de hoeveelheid lucht die nodig is per
kilo
hout, maar dat is nog niet zo makkelijk te zeggen. Wel heb ik de
verbrandingsenergie van hout gevonden die is ongeveer 16 MJ per kilo. Ik
heb
niet echt een idee wat ik met dit getal kan. Je wilt de temperatuur in de
kachel weten, die is afhankelijk van de energie minus de warmte die je
aan
de omgeving verliest lijkt me.
Kortom de ontwikkelingen gaan door, zij het niet zo snel.
Bijgevoegd nog een paar scans uit het polytechnisch zakboekje mbt
verbranding.
Groetjes Bram
by Ned Towle USA - Tue Dec 02 (2003)
Re: Alternative for Low Efficiency Sterling Engine
>Hello; I have a special home built wood burning boiler. Gasification style
and heated my home with great sucess. I am interested in the low cost
sterling engine? Can I build one? can you sketch it so I would get the
concept? I would greatly appreciate it, and if so in English. Thank you
Ned Van: Demotech
> Datum: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:01:00 Europe/Amsterdam
> Aan: Bram de Vries
> Onderwerp: Antw.: warmte pomp
>
> ... met de huidige ventilator kan er verder ge?xperimenteerd worden
Maar
> uitzicht op een ultieme oplossing inspireert meer.
> Wat betreft je bi-stabiele klep, dat lijkt me een eitje. Ik zie een
beeld
> van een membraan van dunne plaat met een kleine slag, bv. 10 % van de
> diameter. Het vlieggewicht in het midden bevat de klep en de aanslag. De
as
> van de klep, in de bewegingsrichting van het membraan, is aan beide
zijden
> van het membraan opgehangen in een drietal licht gebogen korte stukjes
> metaal draad. die stukjes draad zijn aan beide einden gepositioneerd in
een
> kommetje.
> Bij doorklikken bij de aanslag aan het einde van de werkslag,
> buigen de stukjes draad dus even iets verder door. In principe
hetzelfde
> als jouw trekveertjes, maar zorgend voor geleiding EN bi-stabiel
> doorklikken.
> Zo'n membraan zou met een behoorlijk hoge frequentie moeten kunnen
werken.
> het wordt dan een klein ding. Zoveel lucht is er bij een klein continue
> vuur niet nodig. Het wordt tijd dat we wat beter weten hoeveel lucht er
> werkelijk nodig is. Die gegevens moeten makkelijk zijn te vinden in
> kachelliteratuur. Hoeveelheid warmte versus hoeveelheid hout stond in
je
> attachment, niet de benodigde lucht.
> Wat betreft Mathijs Vertooren, zijn aanvullende inspiratie is welkom.
> Houtvergassen levert houtskool op waarop het goed koken is. Mooie
warmte,
> goed te regelen en geen rook en stank. Maar ik denk dat het niet te
> verenigen is met het kardinale uitgangspunt van het huidige
kachelontwerp,
> namelijk de splitsing in een industrieel te maken klein slim
mechaniekje,
> dat goedkoop in bulk te produceren is aan de ene kant en aan de andere
kant
> de kachel zelf, die ruw uit gratis materiaal is op te bouwen, terwijl
de
> combinatie een high-tech resultaat oplevert. Misschien vind Mathijs het
> leuk om mee te denken ...
> De temperatuur in de kachel hangt af van de afkoeling van de diverse
delen.
> Hoe heter de binnenkomende lucht (denk aan een hoogoven) en dan in
precies
> de goede hoeveelheid, hoe minder warmte-afvoer, hoe heter het vuur,
> Daarna
> moet je nog zorgen dat er geen grotere wervels zijn, waarin koelere
lucht
> toch nog minder verbrand gas mee voert. Dat kan met een soort
gloeiblok.
>
> Maar zou jij je kunnen concentreren op het idee laag rendement Sterling
> pomp? Ik ben benieuwd naar de uitkomst van je volgende experiment.
> Intussen, veel succes met alles en tot ziens of mails,
> Reinder van Tijen
>
>
>
> Bram de Vries heeft op Tuesday, 3 Jun 2003 om 10:16 (Europe/Amsterdam)
het
> volgende geschreven:
>
> Beste Reinder,
> Na wat kleine experimenten heb ik inmiddels ontdekt dat er een
> behoorlijke
> druk te halen is door lucht op te warmen, maar de snelheid is vaak wat
> laag.
> Voor de werking van de pomp heb ik onderhand de bistabiele klep nodig.
> Hier
> heb ik veel over na gedacht en ga wat proberen met wat restjes
> binnenband.
>
> Verder heb ik een vriend die bij Ecofys werkt, Matthijs Vertooren is
zijn
> naam. Hij weet veel over verbrandingen en wil graag de kachel zelf nog
> eens
> bekijken. Ik weet niet of je het principe van houtvergassing kent
Voor
> zover ik begreep komt het er op neer dat je hout verbrandt, maar dat
vuur
> laat je stikken. Hier komt veel rook bij vrij. Die rook is weer
> brandbaar.
> Je verbrandt dus in twee stappen. Resultaat is meer warmte (hoewel
dit
> niet
> uit de attachment blijkt) en (in principe) een schoner
> verbrandingsproduct.
> Het schijnt vrij eenvoudig uit te voeren zijn, maar je hebt dan wel een
> goed
> afgesloten verbrandingsomgeving nodig en een geregelde lucht toevoer is
> ook
> fijn (komt dat even goed uit dat er een warmte pomp in de lucht aanvoer
> komt
> te zitten).
>
> Ik ben ook op zoek geweest naar de hoeveelheid lucht die nodig is per
> kilo
> hout, maar dat is nog niet zo makkelijk te zeggen. Wel heb ik de
> verbrandingsenergie van hout gevonden die is ongeveer 16 MJ per kilo
Ik
> heb
> niet echt een idee wat ik met dit getal kan. Je wilt de temperatuur in
de
> kachel weten, die is afhankelijk van de energie minus de warmte die je
> aan
> de omgeving verliest lijkt me.
>
> Kortom de ontwikkelingen gaan door, zij het niet zo snel.
> Bijgevoegd nog een paar scans uit het polytechnisch zakboekje mbt
> verbranding.
>
> Groetjes Bram
>
>
by Reinder / Demotech - Wed Dec 03 (2003)
Re: Alternative for Low Efficiency Sterling Engine
Ned Towle/ USA wrote on Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:01:00 Europe/Amsterdam
Hello; I have a special home built wood burning boiler. Gasification style
and heated my home with great success. I am interested in the low cost
sterling engine...
Ned, sorry, Demotech's idea of using a Stirling engine is not even in
a prototype phase. I can't help you with a manual. But you could help
Demotech with your results with this wood stove. Demotech is specially
interested in the gasification process you mention. The understanding and
control of this process is basic for the quantity of air that has to be
pumped per unit of time. From experiments by others we understand only
little energy (10 to 100 Watt?) is needed for ventilating the stove.
Could you please send us a sketch and data of what you made?
Kind regards, Reinder
by abakyayita@umu.ac.ug - Sat Nov 02 (2002)
need some advice.
hullo,
i tried to research on how i can detail drawings of a suspended slab that
is supporting a fire place. i failed to accomplish this. i need some
advice on what type of cement i should really use leave allone the general
title "fire resisting cement". its for this reason that i write to you
requesting for technical advice.
i will be great for whatever support you provide.
sincerely,
alex.
by Reinder/Demotech - Sat Nov 02 (2002)
Insolating bricks at hot spots
Dear Agakyita,
Demotech has no general expertise on stoves, only some on our special
design. According to our experience the floor of a fireplace does not get
that hot, compared to walls and especially ceiling. When burning wood, the
floor of a fireplace is soon insulated from the fire by ashes.
When you look for locally to be made firebricks, then go to
www.repp.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/Still/VC%20Stove/vcstove.html
Also see a very informative report made in your own country:
www.repp.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/Scott/Uganda%20report.htm
Further consider to insulate bricks at hotspots with a shield from thin
stainless steel sheet metal (0,5 mm or less). Possibly you can find it as
scrap from the housing of a washing machine.
Regards, Reinder
by Mark Surnoskie - Mon Dec 01 (2003)
brick stoves
There is a site called the Masonary Heater Association
www.mha-net.org/
by Dirk Bauwens, Belgi - Wed Dec 03 (2003)
stoves and... steam ?
Hi,
Recently, I happened to stumble into the idea of steam power.
I am already more than convinced that masonry stoves offer most marvelous
perspectives.
A second, obvious step was then, to provide means to store this obtained
energy into water and to become able to transport this energy.
But then, a third, less obvious step forced itself upon me. Would I dare
to cross the 100 degree Celcius border into low pressure vapour that is
capable to drive most powerful machines ?
To me, the use of steam looks very promising.
First of all, we are now able to burn biomass very efficiently.
Secondly, even if a steam engine runs with "low efficiency" (10 till 20
percent), we live in very different times than a hundred years ago and
those heat "losses" could be used much more efficiently than then...
Any thoughts ???
Sincerely,
Dirk
by Sasha - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Re: stoves and... steam ?
I think the idea is good,but there is a real danger in working with high
pressure steam,the danger of explosion.
Sasha
by Dirk Bauwens, Belgium - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Re: stoves and... steam ?
Sasha,
I saw a steam engine, designed for just one third of a bar, but able to
deliver 20 horsepower!
Low pressure steam just requires bigger diameter pistons.
A steam engine and especially one for low pressure, can be considered as a
very useful kind of pressure regulator, an interface that instantly
reduces low pressure steam back to very hot water.
It could, eventually, be developed into a cheap, "poor man's" solution
and provide some very much needed mechanical and/or electrical energy.
Photovoltaic, thermoelectric and stirling engine based systems are just
way too expensive!
Greetings,
Dirk
by Reinder / Demotech - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Re: stoves and... steam ?
Energy only for venting the stove, that's what Demotech is searching for.
More energy for other job's is an interesting topic though. Have a look
at Demotech's WindDrive and the Hydraulic Ram pump
> Photovoltaic, thermoelectric and stirling engine based systems are just ....
Thermo electric could be usefull, Papanek's radio worked on it, with a
candle as an energy source. It became popular in Indonesia as he wrote in
his book 'Design for the Real World'.
Do you have data on the price and
capacity? 10 Watt energy is what is needed to drive a little electric van
to get the BrickStove properly working, a little more would be welcome.
by Dirk Bauwens, Belgium - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Re: stoves and thermo-electricity...
> Energy only for venting the stove, that's what Demotech is searching
for ...
This page has prices:
www.hi-z.com/websit40.htm
I'm sure better prices can be found.
The rest of the site is very interesting, thought-provoking and helpful.
It could be worthwile to experiment with the "Peltier" modules of those
cheap small car refigerators. In reverse mode, when heated up on one side
and kept cool on the other, they should deliver electrical energy
(Seebeck-effect). All I know for now is that they are not
electric-energy-efficient when used for cooling. Maybe they perform better
when producing electricity ?
by Dirk Bauwens, Belgium - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Re: venting the stove.
> Energy only for venting the stove, that's what Demotech is searching
for ...
I have very much respect for the demotech stove design, but I think it is
kind of a weak point that it needs artificial draft. It should be not too
difficult to use the energy of the rising power of the warm exhaust gases.
Of course, then the chimney has to go vertical, somewhere!
I have been thinking of two concentric pipes, the outside one for the
flue, the inside one for the fresh air (so that it is preheated by cooling
the exhaust gas: a heat exchanger)
Extra pressure could be obtained by natural air pressure differences, by
making a rotatable chimney top (on a simple central pin) that changes with
the direction of the wind. When the exhaust flue ends with a curve that
faces away from the wind direction, it will cause a underpressure in the
exhaust line (venturi-effect). At the same time, the smaller air inlet on
top of the chimney, should face the wind direction. This would cause an
overpressure in the fresh air line.
But I agree: variable artificial draft is nice, because it gives the
possibility to experiment with air/fuel ratio's and optimize combustion
under most circumstances.
by HBaarslag - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
the use of steampressure
Having a fire goiing of wood or biomass also means you can not turn it out
when neeeded. But metal tubes or other exposed to the fire wil burn through
if not cooled sufficiently. Anyway they become very weak when hot.The use
of steam can be very threatening. That is why a lot of regulations and laws
are made for using steam power.
Ofcourse one does not have to use the first type of using steam power. That
was very inefficient.But using steam of low pressure and temperature
automatically means inefficiency because the heatlos of condensing the
steam to water. Eg steam of 12 bar and 250 C contains 700 kcal/kg. Condensing
steam to water at atmospheric pressure uses 540 kcal/kg. Meaning an thermic
efficiency of 160:700=23%. If the engine itself has 50% the overall eff. is
11.5%
by Dirk Bauwens - Sat Dec 06 (2003)
Steam
Steam pipes could be put in a separate, closeable, downdraft channels of a
masonry stove. If they contain water, they can never overheat.
The production of steam can be a very energy efficient process in itself.
At 1 bar, 5 times more energy has to be put into water of 100 degrees to
evaporate it into steam, than to bring it from 0 to 100 degrees!
So, at 1 bar, 1 kg steam of 100 degrees contains 6 times more energy than
kg water of 100 degrees!
I think, it's very interesting to think of the steam engine as a kind of
pressure regulator and as a condensor!
Of course, I would only consider the use of low pressure steam power in
combination with necessary and/or useful heat production.
A low pressure, slowly moving steam engine could be made, basically
maintenance free when using modern materials. Even, some of those old
fashioned, primitive steam engines were in non-stop use for more than 150
years!
by Sasha - Sun Nov 02 (2003)
Email corresppondence with Sasha, Serbia
From: Sasha Date: Mon July 22, 2003
Hello, I work in the field of masonry stove building (trying to establish
small ethical sustainable business open source kachelofen (a little bit
hard to establish something like this especially in my part of the
world).
So I am little bit confused with your brick stove. What are you trying to
achieve here? A downdraft wood gassifier stove? The pictures on the site
doesn't explain anything. The best is the small drawing on the top of the
page.
I am trying currently to think out how to build kachelofen of compact
concrete elements, anyone have experience with something simmilar? It
would be excellent in colder part of the world like poor eastern european
countries.
Best, Sasha Mrkailo, Serbia
my home page: http//:www.geocities.com/frogkailo
From: Demotech Date: Thu Aug 21, 2003
Sasha, hello!
I would be glad if my info could be of help in getting you in business in
the building of stone heaters. I have a lot of info for you, on which I
would like to have your comment. I'll sort it our soon. For the time
please visit the source of my inspiration, the befriended non-profit
organization "The 12 Ambachten". They have similar objectives as
Demotech, but luckily have more impact, work out their designs in a
realistic way, that can be applied right away. See their Finn-oven, a
downdraft kacheloven, build by clients themselves, from heat-resistant
cement and tiles. Clients can make use of a workshop where they find all
the molds needed for casting the slabs out of which the Finn-oven is
build. I think they have a manual, hopefully in English.
I just checked it at www.de12ambachten.nl
They have the manual only in Dutch. As the heat resitant cement is very
expensive the cost of these stoves is low compared to commercial
kacheloven, but still cost a lot of money: They charge clients ? 2000,-
for the cement, the use of their workshop and expert guidance. The outcome
is very attractive. The Finn-oven has a great reputation. What I like is
the approach of offering the workshop and guidance, and let people build
their stove themselves. Maybe this concept is worth studying for you.
Demotech approach on stoves is different from that of the 12 Ambachten.
Starting point is that many people who have no money at all, still need to
warm up their house. So Demotech started from what is available for free
and then tested what could be done with it, still honoring some of the
principles of the kacheloven. Some of those principles, not all of them.
To tell you more about it, I'll look at the new-items I wrote in the past
on construction of a no-cost stove of a new radical design, with forced
draft.
Many years I warmed my office with a kacheloven made entirely from
concrete street bricks, masoned with a mix of clay and sand, the lining
made from normal bricks. Now it needs some new bricks at the hottest parts
of the stove, but I rather build a stove of the new concept.
www.demotech.org/design/designB.php?sub=150
www.demotech.org/design/designB.php?sub=99
www.demotech.org/design/designB.php?sub=78
www.demotech.org/design/designB.php?sub=76
You still should get my response to your questions, but this is it for
now!
Regards, Reinder
From: Sasha
Hello Reinder,
( ....) I had just this moment a idea that would be excellent if it
works.Maybe I could just take some regular ceramic tiles and glue them
together with some kind of binder so they represent a kachel? I could
evade all the hard work with processing clay and firing the kachel in the
kiln and just take cheap finished mass produced tiles and glue them and
build a kachelofen.These needs to be worked out.
Back to your message,I find that the concept of 12 ambachten is
interesting but dont know if tit is aplicable here because of cultural
differiences.
If you could tell more about your stove...
Here the kachelofens are build from kachels and ordinary clay.
But your principe is cheaper because no kachels are needed.
I dont know would your forced draft stove gain anything ,because as far as
I know the kachelofen is unsurpassbar if you measure energy efficiency,
eco friendlines,local producable,extreme simple design solution ...
Maybe you are trying to achieve something like this but,there are some
problems with this very interesting and promising design (health hazard
for example)
www.ikweb.com/enuff/public_html/Turbo/Turbo2.htm
just to pass some links that I found very helpfull
www.solaroofgarden.com/
guy who also is trying to promote open source appropriate technology
solaroof technology using soap bubles for thermal insulation and shading
of greenhouses.
journeytoforever.org/
excellent site
From: Demotech Date: Fri Oct 10, 2003
Sasha, hello again!
(....) Regarding the site of the builders of the Finn-oven: Their site is
now partly translated, go again to www.de12ambachten.nl
For heating a workshop of a friend of mine a remodeled the inside of this
oven. It became a lot simpler to build. No more tiles, no more
heat-resisting cement, but thin stainless steel to guide the hottest part
of the air stream in the fire, while this sheet metal is cooled at the
inside by incoming air. The clay, used as mortar is drying now. Next week
I am again at that place and expect to find out if it works as expected.
There may be an other cold factory place in Holland where I can have
another opportunity to test the stove-setup. So this winter will offer a
lot of practical experience.
I'll report to you as soon there is news.
Now regarding your suggestions. The 12 Ambachten uses ordinary tiles, not
glazed, somehow soft, reddish. The heat-resistant concrete is cast on top
of these tiles as they are positioned on the bottom of the casting mold.
But this is just the outside. The real hotspot is a box constructed also
from heat-resisting cement slabs, the fire inside this box gets real hot,
being the reason the combustion is very complete and the smoke is relative
clean.
Please explain what is it you name : kachel, that has to be made from clay
and fired in an oven?
Regarding the chimney, I try to get rid of it for a number of reasons. It
is a very expensive part of the construction of the house. It attracts
cold air and moist (rain). It cools down the oven when the fire has burned
out, but the warm chimney still produces a lot of draft. It is very hard
to create the right draft in a chimney. Given wind or fog in the air, then
to much or to little draft.
Forced draft can be applied as little ventilators are cheap and reliable
(compare computers) Also using a small fan creates the opportunity to use
a very small fire that burn for a very long time. In this way the need for
a large buffering capacity in stone can be reduced, which works out well
regarding price, suitability in apartment houses and ease of
building.
I do not expect any danger of suffocation in case the ventilator would
stop when the fire is burning. As it is only little material that is
actually ablaze, this will soon stop burning as there is no new oxygen at
all. Remember there is no natural draft in Demotech's system.
Your link offers supportive information. And these people really know what
they are talking about. Apart form that they have done so much
demonstrating in poor countries. Yes this is a great source, that I'll
study thoroughly. Only sorry, my theoretical knowledge on heat transfer is
only little. Best would be to contact these people and ask their
opinion.
(...)
Reinder
by f_karaoglu1985@hotmail.com - Wed Dec 07 (2005)
bricks only with one phase
I search that the probability of brick making only with one phase.I have to
find related topics.so that how can ı reach these?
thank you
by Reinder / Demotech - Wed Dec 07 (2005)
Re: bricks only with one phase
> I search that the probability of brick making only with one phase.I have
to
> find related topics.so that how can ? reach these?
> thank you
Sorry, we have no expertise regarding brick making.
Regards, Reinder
by Sasha - Thu Dec 08 (2005)
Re: bricks only with one phase
Hello there karaoglu,
what kind of bricks you want to make with ?one phase? (you mean with
electricity),monophase?
regards,Sasha
> > I search that the probability of brick making only with one phase.I
have
> to
> > find related topics.so that how can ? reach these?
> > thank you
>
> Sorry, we have no expertise regarding brick making.
>
> Regards, Reinder
>
by f_karaoglu1985@hotmail.com - Fri Dec 09 (2005)
Re: bricks only with one phase
hi sasha,? mean that electricity(how can ? make a new brick form with
electricity)
by Sasha - Fri Dec 09 (2005)
bricks
Hi Karaoglu
You have to tell me more specifically what is that you are interested
in.What kind of bricks?
You need to have a pottery kiln to fire ceramics.If you want it,kiln can
be fired with electricity,or it can be fired with wood,oil,natural gas
etc.
Kiln is basically a insulated shell which can endure frequently firing to
C without deteriating.Simplest kiln is a hole in the earth with clay
bricks in it and wood over it.You need to fire clay slowly (temperature
increasing) so to avoid cracking of bricks.If you want a electric kiln you
need to have electric resistant heaters.You can build it yourself but you
need canthal wire which you can wind in a coil.Wire it to elecricity suply
and you have a kiln.
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